February 2010 - Asian Dumpling Tips

How to Shape a Rope Edge (Video)

Asian Dumplings Cookbook, Technique Videos and Photos

Earlier this year, Mike Miller requested that I put up a video on this nifty technique for gussying up a turnover-like dumplings. He has been a diligent dumpling maker and reminded me in his comment on the pleated crescent video that I owed him this one. I promised Mike and now am delivering.

You’ll find this advance shaping technique referred to in the following Asian Dumplings cookbook recipes: Mongolian meat and caraway pockets (p. 50), baked Filipino empanadas (p. 111), Southeast Asian curry puffs (p. 125), and my childhood favorite — Vietnamese shrimp, pork, and jicama turnovers (banh quai vac chien, p. 118). Aside from using the technique for dumplings, you can certainly put a rope edge on a pie crust. Enjoy and practice lots. Eat your way to perfection.

Related videos:

Sending Dumplings in the Mail

Asian Dumplings Cookbook, Cooking Tips & Tricks

I came home yesterday and found an oddly shaped package stuffed into my mailbox. The postage indicated that it came from Singapore, and on the back the sender revealed himself: Christopher Tan, an Asian food expert, author, and writer whom I luckily call a dear friend. Ha! We are in the Lunar New Year season and I upon tearing open the package, I found exactly what I suspected, a box of pineapple kuih tart, a dumpling/cookie that’s a must-have for Chinese New Year celebrations in Singapore. The tarts are fashioned to look like small tangerines, a traditional good luck symbol. The whole clove stuck on top underscores the tangerine effect.

I first tasted the spiced pineapple jam filled treats in New York City at Saveur magazine headquarters, when I was visiting with Editor-in-Chief James Oseland. We were discussing the Asian Dumplings recipe collection and James said, “Here try these.” He opened up a large tin of kuih tart that Chris has sent him. They were heavenly and I unknowingly ate the whole clove decoration and received an extra spicy high. When I returned to California, I emailed Chris about them and he pointed me in the right direction for developing a recipe (see the Sweets chapter, page 195 for the spiced pineapple-filled dumplings recipe). That was in fall of 2007. The book was released in last August. Getting a box of the dumplings from Chris makes me feel like I’ve come full circle, though there is still more to explore in the world of Asian dumplings.

Tips for Mailing Dumplings
If you’re thinking of mailing dumplings, they should be relatively sturdy cooked ones. These little gems travel well, so long as you pack them tightly like Chris did, each one in a little paper cup. There was a layer of parchment between the layers. This year, Chris changed his dough recipe and made it flakier than mine, so the dumplings crumbled a tad during the arduous trip via air mail. They nevertheless tasted great. Every time I eat one, there’s a huge grin on my face.

Which dumplings mail well? If I were to mail dumplings, I’d go for the kuih tart or one of sticky rice dumplings wrapped in banana or lotus leaf. Individually wrap and then freeze the leaf-wrapped dumplings so that they stay fresh, then mail them in the shortest time possible. In the U.S. the all-you-can-stuff priority mail flat rate boxes ($4.95 or $10.70) are fabulous deals. Whatever dumpling you send, the recipient will feel like he/she is the luckiest person on Earth!

Tips for Cooking Frozen Asian Dumplings

Asian Dumpling Basics, Asian Dumplings Cookbook, Cooking Tips & Tricks

Making dumplings from scratch takes time, so how do you bank your effort for future meals? Freeze it! I have a stand-up freezer in my garage, and if you were to root in the freezer this morning, you’ll find the following dumplings stashed away in zip-top bags and plastic containers: three kinds of bao, lamb momo, lotus leaf packets (lo mai gai), and Indonesian spicy chicken and sticky rice packets (lemper ayam). Dumplings are at their best when made fresh and cooked fresh but hey, it’s always good to have a few frozen ones for instant gratification.

Recipes in Asian Dumplings contain freezing tips but a couple weeks ago, I received this email from Sue Rosen that prompted this post:

I love your new book and am having so much fun with it. The first batch I made (Pork and Napa Cabbage Water dumplings) got my husband to say, "this is the best thing you've ever made". He happily ate the leftovers for the next couple of days. When I made then again I decided to freeze half of them as you mention in the book. My question is, do I defrost them before cooking or just put them in the pot frozen? And if I put them in frozen, how long do they need to cook?

My answer to Sue was this:

Let them partially thaw — meaning let them sit out for 10 to 15 minutes before dropping them into the boiling pot of water. If they totally defrost, the dumplings can get mushy and be hard to pick up. I basically take the dumplings out of the freezer, put them on a piece of parchment and let them sit there while the water comes to a boil. If there's ice sticking to the dumplings, I wipe it off. If there are cracked dumplings, I try my best to smooth out the wrapper before cooking. This partial defrosting applies to pan-frying and steaming dumplings. [Addendum: Line your steamer tray with parchment and put the dumplings on top to thaw while you ready the water for steaming.]

In her response to my advice on cooking frozen dumplings, Sue revealed her ultimate motive for freezing dumplings:

I'm going away for the weekend and leaving my husband with those frozen dumplings.

She also sent along these photos of her dumpling achievements:

Water Dumplings and Steamed Buns by Sue Rosen
Thanks for the food styling the photos with beer and veggies!

Note that these cooking tips can be applied to store bought dumplings, such as the frozen Trader Joe's dumplings that I reviewed. Despite what the package says, I don't cooking dumplings straight from the freezer.

If you have tips to share on how you cook frozen dumplings, chime in. Or, if you have a question, email me!

Shaoxing Rice Wine: A Buying Guide

Asian Dumpling Basics, Asian Ingredients

Several people have inquired in the past month about Shaoxing rice wine, a commonly used Chinese ingredient that I frequently reach for when making Asian dumplings. The questions asked include: (1) Where do I buy the rice wine? (2) Where is it stocked in an Asian market? and (3) What is a substitute for it? This post will hopefully answer those questions and more!

What is Shaoxing rice wine? How is Chinese rice wine used?
Amber colored, aromatic, and pleasantly nutty tasting, Shaoxing rice wine is the standard spirit in Chinese cooking. Made of brown glutinous (sweet/sticky) rice, it is one of the earliest types of liquors that the Chinese made. Shaoxing rice wine adds an unmistakable flavor and fragrance to dishes, whether it is mixed into Asian dumpling fillings, added to marinades for roasted meats such as char siu pork, combined with seasonings for stir-fries, or simmered with soy sauce and sugar for red-cooked dishes. If you’ve ever used sake in Japanese cooking, Shaoxing rice wine is employed quite similarly in Chinese cuisine. Sip on some of the rice wine and you’ll warm up quickly as it contains about 17 to 18% alcohol.

Advanced Asian Dumpling Shapes: The Pleated Crescent (video)

Asian Dumpling Basics, Asian Dumplings Cookbook, Technique Videos and Photos

A commonly seen Asian Dumpling shape (think pot stickers and har gow), the pleated crescent is a bit more advanced than the half moon, pea pod or big hug. I watched a lot of dumpling masters perform this shape and then figured out how to do it myself.

Remember to work with both hands holding the wrapper in the air as that allows you to manipulate the dough better. You can certainly use this folding technique for store-bought wrappers. Be sure to moisten the wrapper first to create a decent seal.

More how-to videos:

How to Fold Basic Asian Dumpling Shapes: Half Moon, Pea Pod and Big Hug (Video)

Asian Dumplings Cookbook, Technique Videos and Photos

I’ve said this so many times in cooking classes and I’m typing it out right here: When folding up Asian dumplings, start out simple and work your way up. The number one goal at the beginning is to get the darn wrapper closed! Concentrate on that and then hone the aesthetics as your progress.

You’ll find that fresh, homemade wrappers yield to your touch and manipulation much easier than store-bought wrappers, which tend to be dry side and require moistening with water. The shapes that I demonstrate in this video produce with CHOW.com are for the most basic shapes. The idea is that you start with a half moon then you can make a pea pod and a big hug. They latter two shapes build upon the half moon. They are merely baby steps on your journey toward becoming a dumpling master!

These instructions are meant to go along with the text on pages 26 and 27 of the Asian Dumplings cookbook. Also check out the general tips for shaping dumplings on page 28. Even though these dumplings were formed from wrappers that I had just rolled out by hand, you can apply these techniques to purchased wrappers.

Presented here courtesy of CHOW.com

More how-to videos:

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